Thursday, November 28, 2013

Somewhere Over the Rainbow

 
On Friday we all meet at a conference center outside of Asuncion where all of our contacts came to meet us for the first time.  Before we even arrived they had lectures about safety/security, emergency procedures, what to expect of us, and other general information about Peace Corps.  So when we finally arrived we had a long snack/ terere session which was a good informal way to meet our contact for the first time.  The contact that came to pick me up was Basilio who is the director of the school in my community.  Once the introductions were made we had a smaller group session and separated the contacts from us.  During this time we made two lists one of which was what we expect from our contacts and the other is what they should expect from us.  Once both groups got this complete we came back together and shared them with each other and it was really cool to see that many of the things overlapped.  They all seemed to understand that we need a lot of help with our language and further adjusting into the culture but that we wanted to be treated as a member of the community and as an ally to work with.  After that we had the final session with everyone back together and Eli and Alister (my bosses) just said their final words.  We concluded with a wonderful lunch during which time many people were leaving in every different direction to catch a bus to their site.  Luckily for me my contact drove his car, mainly because the bus schedule didn’t align with our schedule.  So we had about a 4 hour drive to get to know each other a little bit and he pointed out interesting places along the way.
                My site is located about an hour and a half drive north of the city of Caaguazu.  Caaguazu is the wood capital of Paraguay so there are many saw mills and people making every single wood product imaginable along the road.  Once we left the city the roads turned to dirt/ mud.  They are currently in the process of paving the road becoming the new route 13 in Paraguay but at this point only small stretches are done and none of the bridges are done.  One of the main reasons this new road is going in is because there is LARGE production agriculture along this road, mainly soy beans and corn as far as the eye can see so they need better roads to transport their products.  So with that said they have make shift bridges mainly just a lot of dirt built up and even though it had not rained for many days it was super muddy.  When we turned off the main road we drove about 5 km to get into my community of Jukyry Central.  The roads the last 5 km were even worse because they are not considered a primary road and a lot of erosion has occurred leaving huge canyons in the road.  Also if it rains there is absolutely no way to get in and out of site. 
                My community officially starts on the other side of a creek that we drove over and is located in some beautiful rolling hills.  My community as a whole is an agricultural community with many people growing mandio, sugar cane, corn, yerba mate, watermelon, and citrus trees.  All of the agriculture in the community is done by hand, without machinery so I just enjoyed watching the people hoeing huge fields and also using oxen to plow.  The people here work very hard and many people grow enough for their families as well as a few extras to sell at the market.  My community consists of 67 houses and around 200 people I would say but it is so hard to tell.  The families here are very large and everyone in the household is very hard working from sun up to sun down on various farming tasks.  Many of the men work in the fields while the women work around the home and milking the cows, feeding the chickens, pigs, etc., as well as all of the household chores like washing clothes and making food.  Everyone seems to have a very specific job to do so no one is ever sitting idle for too long.
When I first arrived into my community I went to the school and met three of the professors (one of which is my host mom who teaches all day).  In the afternoons they hold escuela which is the younger grades consisting of just 3 classes while in the morning is the colegio (like our high school).  My host father is also a professor but he teaches in the morning and then works in the fields in the afternoons.  The school itself is small but very quaint with a small soccer field, many trees providing shade, and a wonderful large school garden and small tree nursery!!!  The kids work in the garden just about every day mostly this time of year to harvest the vegetables but it is a super place to start when I begin to work in the school.  I am just amazed because the school garden is organized and each grade has their own bed to work with and the garden looked great.  They also have a lot of citrus trees growing which is great because they are looking more long term.  Citrus trees are very popular here and from what I have seen are planted with many other crops growing beneath them so agroforestry is already here and practiced, even though people don’t call it that!!! So it looks like I will have an infinite supply of oranges, grapefruit, peaches, bananas, lime/lemon, etc.  This community already seems to know about sustainability and making the most out of every space which makes my job a lot easier!
My host family consists of my mom Mabel and dad Hugo and their two daughters Maria and Pilar.  They live in a nice house surrounded by wonderful trees, most of which are fruit trees.  They have a lot of farm animals, including many milk cows, pigs, chickens; it seems almost like Old McDonald’s farm especially with baby animals running around everywhere including kittens, puppies, piglets, calves, and baby chicks.  We have an outdoor kitchen where they cook over a fire as well as an outdoor cold shower (which is nice when it’s hot but I don’t think will be nice come winter, oh well) and an outdoor “bathroom”.  Many houses in my community have what we would consider an outdoor bathroom with running water and a toilet but my family seems to like the older style of a hole in the ground so it is taking some adjustment but is doable.  In the pictures below you can see some of these buildings. 
This weekend we just spent a lot of time hanging out under the shade tree since it is so hot and Hugo worked all of the time in the fields and the girls just worked around the house.  I also began to walk a lot around my community trying to figure the layout of the community and try and figure out where different people live.  We went to church on Sunday which was a cute country Catholic Church and the preacher (I don’t know the Catholic name for a preacher) only visits once a month but the other Sundays is taught by the church leader.  There were a lot of people in attendance and the service was in Guarani so I didn’t really understand it but it was just nice to be in a church again.  Plus I’m sure if I go enough I will slowly be able to understand as my Guarani improves!  Also I really enjoy that in the campo they partake in siestas so it is cultural acceptable to sleep in the afternoon for an hour or more which is just up my alley, I could definitely get used to that!
On Monday morning I went with my host parents and sisters to school for the day.  The morning session goes from 7-11 with a 30 minute recess in the middle and the afternoon from 12:30-4:30 with another 30 minute recess, so the kids are actually only in class for a little over 3 hours per day.  Also the education system is a lot different from that in the states and mostly consists of the teacher writing the notes on the chalk board and then just the kids copying the notes done but it isn’t interactive at all.  The class sizes at my school are small with about 10 or less per grade with only 5 different professors.  This week was a little bit different because it is the last week of school until February so most of the class time consisted of taking exams.  I observed Mabel’s class in the morning and the afternoon.  We had just enough time at lunch to walk home and fix lunch and then come right back.  We got out of school early because it started to cloud up and just begin to thunder off in the distance but they called off school for the rest of the day so the kids could walk home safely and we were able to get home right as it started to rain.  So I have learned that in Paraguay if it looks like rain is coming or if it rains even just a little bit school will be cancelled.  Later in the day I walked around my community with my contact right after the rain and off in the distance was a beautiful double rainbow which just was a perfect end to the day as well as introduction to the community.
 The meals here are very different in the campo compared to more urban areas, or compared to my other host family.  The breakfast consists of hot milk (straight from the cow!) and crackers with dulce de leche (similar to caramel) which sadly doesn’t last very long.  Lunch is about 12 and even though it is over 100° consists of a soup usually with meat, beans, and rice.  Dinner isn’t served until 9 pm and is also a soup or something else; also mandio is served with everything which is sort of like a potato very starchy and a little sweet.  We also had a bunch of fresh fruit from the trees and veggies out of the garden.  Also all of the watermelons are coming ripe so you can buy a huge watermelon for just over $1 US which is perfect when it is so hot.  Also I was able to drink a lot of wonderful fresh fruit juice, I just have to get a glass before they add all of the sugar and my favorite so far was fresh pineapple juice and fresh lemonade!
On Tuesday morning I spent the morning working with my contact to fill out all of our mandatory PC paperwork, so we had to fill out a site locator form which consisted of a detailed map as well as a list of phone numbers, radio stations, nearest police station, hospital, etc. all in case of a future emergency.  It is super important I know but it is hard to draw a map and use only landmarks since there are not any street signs so I just had to use references like a corn field with a tree in the middle so hopefully if they need to find me they can just call and hopefully they don’t change the crops or cut down the trees I used as references!  Also I had to fill out an emergency form on how I would be able to get out of site using both the public bus system as well as have a contact with a car so in case of an emergency I could get out of site.  We had quite a fun time drawing maps and trying to figure everything out but luckily my contact what super knowledgeable and helped answer all of my questions.  In the afternoon I took a much needed brain break and to get caught up on more paperwork because my community mainly speaks Guarani and luckily my host family also speaks Spanish so after a few days I just need to sit down and think in English and to try and write down all of my new words.  Also my contact is super nice and gave me a Spanish-Guarani dictionary so now I can use my English-Spanish dictionary first and then the other second until I get my Spanish down more.  It is amazing how fast though I am catching on to the language when I don’t have any other options for communication. 
Overall I had a fantastic time in my new community even though I was only there for 5 short days.  Everyone I met was super nice and even though it is a very poor community (I guess in my standards) it didn’t matter who I was visiting but they were all trying to feed me and just completely opened their home to me.  Everyone wants me to come and stay with them instead of living with my host family for 3 months so I told them I would think about it but it would be impossible to stay with everyone and moving every week just doesn’t sound like fun to me but we shall see.  My community is so beautiful with a fair number of trees but a ton of beautiful birds, immense insects including many different butterflies. We also have an indigenous community located outside of our community about a 2 hour walk into the forest I am told so I think one day in the future I will have to go visit that community. I am really looking forward to living here!  Sorry I didn’t take a lot of pictures but I figured I have two years to do that plus I didn’t want to walk around with my camera just yet.
After my 3 months in site with a host family I will be able to move out on my own and right now I have two different options.  The first option is the house right next to my host family who is owned by my aunt and she lives in another city and the house is just her “vacation” home that she only uses a few days a year but it is fully furnished so that is a great option.  The other house is beautiful and located just down from my host family and is a huge wooden house with a thatched roof but my favorite part is outside with a huge grape arbor about 30 ft x 30 ft and every fruit tree imaginable.  The downside is that it is completely empty and needs a lot of work but we will just have to see.  Both houses are nice and I would be happy with either one.  Also before I am allowed to move into either house I have to get Peace Corp staff out here to check it out and go through the safety/security check list.
On Wednesday morning I got up before the sun to catch the bus a little bit after 5 am.  My host mom drove me out to catch the bus which saved me from walking which was really nice.  I was one of the first pickups along the line so I was luckily able to get a seat.  The back half of the bus is without seats which at first surprised me but I quickly learned that everyone in the rural area uses the bus to transport their goods to market.  So by the time we reached town about an hour and half later the ENTIRE back of the bus was filled with fresh fruit, veggies, corn, and every other crop.  I guess it is also common to have animals on the bus to take to market but luckily none this morning.  Also all of the weight in the back of the bus for sure helped with the slick muddy roads.  Luckily the bus ran because the previous days it did not due to the rain on Monday.  The ride took about an hour and half to get into Caaguazu where I got off and then caught another bus into San Lorenzo (suburb of Asuncion) to catch my bus back home where I arrived a little bit before noon.  So I was able to spend the afternoon getting unpacked and caught up on things. 
I hope that you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving; I will be spending it in Asuncion at the house of the ambassador which I think will be tons of fun.
MY NEW ADDRESS:
Kaitlyn W. Bradley, PCV
Correo Paraguayo- Caaguazu
Caaguazu, Paraguay
Codigo Postal 3400
Sudamerica
0984664378
 










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