Friday, November 29, 2013

Thanksgiving at the Ambassador’s House

Yesterday all of the trainees traveled into Asuncion to the Ambassador’s house for a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner.  We arrive about 11 am and after we went through all of the security checkpoints we had about an hour and a half to explore, use the pool, use the internet, and make phone calls home.  Everyone had a wonderful time swimming around in the pool and playing board games as you can see in the photos below.  I spent the majority of my time working on my blog and calling home as well as wandering around the grounds looking at everything.  I did get my feet wet in the pool just to say that I have been in the pool.  They have a beautiful place in the middle of the busy capital of Asuncion, also it is technically considered American soil, so we were all laughing that we were back in the US to celebrate Thanksgiving.  The Ambassador and his wife were just so friendly to us all and just completely opened their home to us all.  It was also fun because Mrs. Ambassador showed us all around her house with the different art and they both played board games with us.  Below you should be able to see some pictures of the house, pool, the playground, and some of the trees and flowers.

At about 1:15 we all headed upstairs to the dining room which you should be able to see pictures of.  We had a wonderful speech by the Ambassador himself and then our country director before we ate.  The dining room was just beautiful with the tables all decorated and our US plates and all of the beautiful flowers.  They also had a wonderful spread of food with all the major Thanksgiving dishes and a wonderful table of desserts as well.  I think all of the weight that I had previously lost in Paraguay I gained back again but this was the most food that I think I have eaten here thus far, and probably the last “American” meal that I will have for quite some time.  I also have two more years to burn it all off!  The food wasn’t quite as good as my mom and dad’s cooking but it was pretty good none the less, and I had no trouble cleaning my plate.  Once we finished with the main food they brought out all the desserts including homemade ice cream to go with our pie!  Also the country director made a wonderful carrot cake!  As we were eating we had a huge storm system roll into the city and it poured rain for at least 3 hours, luckily we were all inside eating and didn’t have to go out for a while, but unfortunately were not able to take a much needed walk outside.  When we all finished eating Mrs. Ambassador came out with Zip-Lock bags and encouraged us to take leftovers since that is her favorite thing about Thanksgiving so by the time all of us (45 now) got through taking food we had cleaned them out.  I just took a big bag of lettuce and two pieces of carrot cake to share with my family.  So if any of you have a simple carrot cake recipe with good icing I would love to have it!!!!

After we all finished eating at least at my table we went around the table and talked about what we were thankful for both here in Paraguay and back at home.  It was great to just take a few minutes to reflect on the last year and also just the last 2 months we have been away from home.  I have a lot to be thankful for and most of all just so thankful for all the support that I have at home cheering me on here.  Everyday isn’t great here at it is hard to be away from home but it is so great to just keep getting wonderful letters, emails, and messages from those of you back home, you have no idea how much the mean to me.  I am having a wonderful time here and my host family is just phenomenal, when I arrived home from my future site visit (after only being gone for 5 days) my host mom just started crying because she said she missed me so much, and it is so great to know that I have another family here in Paraguay as well as my family back home.  I think we all just have a huge list of what we are thankful for this year!

There are many little things we take for granted at home including hot water coming out of the sinks, I was so excited when I turned the knob for the hot water and it actually worked!  This was the first time since being in Paraguay there was hot water coming out of a sink; normally it is just cold water.  Also I can honestly say I just miss being able to watch the Thanksgiving Day parade with all the beautiful balloons, and laying down after eating to watch football, and being surrounded by family and friends!  I hope that you all had a wonderful Thanksgiving Day, I know I sure did!

 
 




 




 
 

 
 


 





 


 

Thursday, November 28, 2013

Somewhere Over the Rainbow

 
On Friday we all meet at a conference center outside of Asuncion where all of our contacts came to meet us for the first time.  Before we even arrived they had lectures about safety/security, emergency procedures, what to expect of us, and other general information about Peace Corps.  So when we finally arrived we had a long snack/ terere session which was a good informal way to meet our contact for the first time.  The contact that came to pick me up was Basilio who is the director of the school in my community.  Once the introductions were made we had a smaller group session and separated the contacts from us.  During this time we made two lists one of which was what we expect from our contacts and the other is what they should expect from us.  Once both groups got this complete we came back together and shared them with each other and it was really cool to see that many of the things overlapped.  They all seemed to understand that we need a lot of help with our language and further adjusting into the culture but that we wanted to be treated as a member of the community and as an ally to work with.  After that we had the final session with everyone back together and Eli and Alister (my bosses) just said their final words.  We concluded with a wonderful lunch during which time many people were leaving in every different direction to catch a bus to their site.  Luckily for me my contact drove his car, mainly because the bus schedule didn’t align with our schedule.  So we had about a 4 hour drive to get to know each other a little bit and he pointed out interesting places along the way.
                My site is located about an hour and a half drive north of the city of Caaguazu.  Caaguazu is the wood capital of Paraguay so there are many saw mills and people making every single wood product imaginable along the road.  Once we left the city the roads turned to dirt/ mud.  They are currently in the process of paving the road becoming the new route 13 in Paraguay but at this point only small stretches are done and none of the bridges are done.  One of the main reasons this new road is going in is because there is LARGE production agriculture along this road, mainly soy beans and corn as far as the eye can see so they need better roads to transport their products.  So with that said they have make shift bridges mainly just a lot of dirt built up and even though it had not rained for many days it was super muddy.  When we turned off the main road we drove about 5 km to get into my community of Jukyry Central.  The roads the last 5 km were even worse because they are not considered a primary road and a lot of erosion has occurred leaving huge canyons in the road.  Also if it rains there is absolutely no way to get in and out of site. 
                My community officially starts on the other side of a creek that we drove over and is located in some beautiful rolling hills.  My community as a whole is an agricultural community with many people growing mandio, sugar cane, corn, yerba mate, watermelon, and citrus trees.  All of the agriculture in the community is done by hand, without machinery so I just enjoyed watching the people hoeing huge fields and also using oxen to plow.  The people here work very hard and many people grow enough for their families as well as a few extras to sell at the market.  My community consists of 67 houses and around 200 people I would say but it is so hard to tell.  The families here are very large and everyone in the household is very hard working from sun up to sun down on various farming tasks.  Many of the men work in the fields while the women work around the home and milking the cows, feeding the chickens, pigs, etc., as well as all of the household chores like washing clothes and making food.  Everyone seems to have a very specific job to do so no one is ever sitting idle for too long.
When I first arrived into my community I went to the school and met three of the professors (one of which is my host mom who teaches all day).  In the afternoons they hold escuela which is the younger grades consisting of just 3 classes while in the morning is the colegio (like our high school).  My host father is also a professor but he teaches in the morning and then works in the fields in the afternoons.  The school itself is small but very quaint with a small soccer field, many trees providing shade, and a wonderful large school garden and small tree nursery!!!  The kids work in the garden just about every day mostly this time of year to harvest the vegetables but it is a super place to start when I begin to work in the school.  I am just amazed because the school garden is organized and each grade has their own bed to work with and the garden looked great.  They also have a lot of citrus trees growing which is great because they are looking more long term.  Citrus trees are very popular here and from what I have seen are planted with many other crops growing beneath them so agroforestry is already here and practiced, even though people don’t call it that!!! So it looks like I will have an infinite supply of oranges, grapefruit, peaches, bananas, lime/lemon, etc.  This community already seems to know about sustainability and making the most out of every space which makes my job a lot easier!
My host family consists of my mom Mabel and dad Hugo and their two daughters Maria and Pilar.  They live in a nice house surrounded by wonderful trees, most of which are fruit trees.  They have a lot of farm animals, including many milk cows, pigs, chickens; it seems almost like Old McDonald’s farm especially with baby animals running around everywhere including kittens, puppies, piglets, calves, and baby chicks.  We have an outdoor kitchen where they cook over a fire as well as an outdoor cold shower (which is nice when it’s hot but I don’t think will be nice come winter, oh well) and an outdoor “bathroom”.  Many houses in my community have what we would consider an outdoor bathroom with running water and a toilet but my family seems to like the older style of a hole in the ground so it is taking some adjustment but is doable.  In the pictures below you can see some of these buildings. 
This weekend we just spent a lot of time hanging out under the shade tree since it is so hot and Hugo worked all of the time in the fields and the girls just worked around the house.  I also began to walk a lot around my community trying to figure the layout of the community and try and figure out where different people live.  We went to church on Sunday which was a cute country Catholic Church and the preacher (I don’t know the Catholic name for a preacher) only visits once a month but the other Sundays is taught by the church leader.  There were a lot of people in attendance and the service was in Guarani so I didn’t really understand it but it was just nice to be in a church again.  Plus I’m sure if I go enough I will slowly be able to understand as my Guarani improves!  Also I really enjoy that in the campo they partake in siestas so it is cultural acceptable to sleep in the afternoon for an hour or more which is just up my alley, I could definitely get used to that!
On Monday morning I went with my host parents and sisters to school for the day.  The morning session goes from 7-11 with a 30 minute recess in the middle and the afternoon from 12:30-4:30 with another 30 minute recess, so the kids are actually only in class for a little over 3 hours per day.  Also the education system is a lot different from that in the states and mostly consists of the teacher writing the notes on the chalk board and then just the kids copying the notes done but it isn’t interactive at all.  The class sizes at my school are small with about 10 or less per grade with only 5 different professors.  This week was a little bit different because it is the last week of school until February so most of the class time consisted of taking exams.  I observed Mabel’s class in the morning and the afternoon.  We had just enough time at lunch to walk home and fix lunch and then come right back.  We got out of school early because it started to cloud up and just begin to thunder off in the distance but they called off school for the rest of the day so the kids could walk home safely and we were able to get home right as it started to rain.  So I have learned that in Paraguay if it looks like rain is coming or if it rains even just a little bit school will be cancelled.  Later in the day I walked around my community with my contact right after the rain and off in the distance was a beautiful double rainbow which just was a perfect end to the day as well as introduction to the community.
 The meals here are very different in the campo compared to more urban areas, or compared to my other host family.  The breakfast consists of hot milk (straight from the cow!) and crackers with dulce de leche (similar to caramel) which sadly doesn’t last very long.  Lunch is about 12 and even though it is over 100° consists of a soup usually with meat, beans, and rice.  Dinner isn’t served until 9 pm and is also a soup or something else; also mandio is served with everything which is sort of like a potato very starchy and a little sweet.  We also had a bunch of fresh fruit from the trees and veggies out of the garden.  Also all of the watermelons are coming ripe so you can buy a huge watermelon for just over $1 US which is perfect when it is so hot.  Also I was able to drink a lot of wonderful fresh fruit juice, I just have to get a glass before they add all of the sugar and my favorite so far was fresh pineapple juice and fresh lemonade!
On Tuesday morning I spent the morning working with my contact to fill out all of our mandatory PC paperwork, so we had to fill out a site locator form which consisted of a detailed map as well as a list of phone numbers, radio stations, nearest police station, hospital, etc. all in case of a future emergency.  It is super important I know but it is hard to draw a map and use only landmarks since there are not any street signs so I just had to use references like a corn field with a tree in the middle so hopefully if they need to find me they can just call and hopefully they don’t change the crops or cut down the trees I used as references!  Also I had to fill out an emergency form on how I would be able to get out of site using both the public bus system as well as have a contact with a car so in case of an emergency I could get out of site.  We had quite a fun time drawing maps and trying to figure everything out but luckily my contact what super knowledgeable and helped answer all of my questions.  In the afternoon I took a much needed brain break and to get caught up on more paperwork because my community mainly speaks Guarani and luckily my host family also speaks Spanish so after a few days I just need to sit down and think in English and to try and write down all of my new words.  Also my contact is super nice and gave me a Spanish-Guarani dictionary so now I can use my English-Spanish dictionary first and then the other second until I get my Spanish down more.  It is amazing how fast though I am catching on to the language when I don’t have any other options for communication. 
Overall I had a fantastic time in my new community even though I was only there for 5 short days.  Everyone I met was super nice and even though it is a very poor community (I guess in my standards) it didn’t matter who I was visiting but they were all trying to feed me and just completely opened their home to me.  Everyone wants me to come and stay with them instead of living with my host family for 3 months so I told them I would think about it but it would be impossible to stay with everyone and moving every week just doesn’t sound like fun to me but we shall see.  My community is so beautiful with a fair number of trees but a ton of beautiful birds, immense insects including many different butterflies. We also have an indigenous community located outside of our community about a 2 hour walk into the forest I am told so I think one day in the future I will have to go visit that community. I am really looking forward to living here!  Sorry I didn’t take a lot of pictures but I figured I have two years to do that plus I didn’t want to walk around with my camera just yet.
After my 3 months in site with a host family I will be able to move out on my own and right now I have two different options.  The first option is the house right next to my host family who is owned by my aunt and she lives in another city and the house is just her “vacation” home that she only uses a few days a year but it is fully furnished so that is a great option.  The other house is beautiful and located just down from my host family and is a huge wooden house with a thatched roof but my favorite part is outside with a huge grape arbor about 30 ft x 30 ft and every fruit tree imaginable.  The downside is that it is completely empty and needs a lot of work but we will just have to see.  Both houses are nice and I would be happy with either one.  Also before I am allowed to move into either house I have to get Peace Corp staff out here to check it out and go through the safety/security check list.
On Wednesday morning I got up before the sun to catch the bus a little bit after 5 am.  My host mom drove me out to catch the bus which saved me from walking which was really nice.  I was one of the first pickups along the line so I was luckily able to get a seat.  The back half of the bus is without seats which at first surprised me but I quickly learned that everyone in the rural area uses the bus to transport their goods to market.  So by the time we reached town about an hour and half later the ENTIRE back of the bus was filled with fresh fruit, veggies, corn, and every other crop.  I guess it is also common to have animals on the bus to take to market but luckily none this morning.  Also all of the weight in the back of the bus for sure helped with the slick muddy roads.  Luckily the bus ran because the previous days it did not due to the rain on Monday.  The ride took about an hour and half to get into Caaguazu where I got off and then caught another bus into San Lorenzo (suburb of Asuncion) to catch my bus back home where I arrived a little bit before noon.  So I was able to spend the afternoon getting unpacked and caught up on things. 
I hope that you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving; I will be spending it in Asuncion at the house of the ambassador which I think will be tons of fun.
MY NEW ADDRESS:
Kaitlyn W. Bradley, PCV
Correo Paraguayo- Caaguazu
Caaguazu, Paraguay
Codigo Postal 3400
Sudamerica
0984664378
 










Thursday, November 21, 2013

Perfect Day in Paraguay Post

Well today (Wednesday) was our Cultural Excursion Day. Each of us got to sign up for one of two different trips around Paraguay. One trip was to a large lake and the other was to 3 different places, so I participated in the 3 different places. Our first stop about an hour away took us to the train museum. Paraguay claims they had the first trains to go across South America (evidently is historically disputed), all of the materials and trains were sent here from England at the time along with the engineers. What we toured was the old train yard and the place where they worked on the maintenance of the trains. I am in no way an expert on trains but we saw many old locomotives as well as large industrial equipment they used for the metal working as well as a small museum that showed the old seats, windows, log books, etc. It was interesting because the log books written were in English because at first all the engineers were from England and they were the ones that we in charge. There was a lot of history to be learned but given a limited time as well as a limited knowledge of written (mostly technical) Spanish it didn’t take too long to go through the museum. We also had to wear bright yellow hardhats for some reason through the museum, I think mostly just for the looks since we couldn’t find out any overhead safety concerns. Overall it was really interesting to see the old trains and the museum. You should be able to see pictures below of some of the trains, the parts of the train in Spanish (in case you wanted to know), as well as some of the tools they used.

Our next stop was to a smaller artisan town where we were able to see women and men making hammocks. It seemed like a lot of work and really made me appreciate them even more when I was able to buy mine later on. I learned that it takes about 2 hours to make one hammock and the more complex the design, colors, etc. the longer it takes. After we were finished with our tour we were given about half an hour in the town market to look around and buy different crafts. So of course I bought a beautiful hammock for only 45 mil Guaranis (about $10). We also saw many different crafts but at this point I don’t really have a need for them since I will soon be moving. We then traveled and stopped at a large gas station for lunch where people could buy lunch if they didn’t bring it but of course my host mom packed me a wonderful lunch so I just treated myself to ice cream.

After lunch we traveled up the large hill in the town to a beautiful overlook point where you could see 360° around. It was so great to be able to see both the small city as well as the beautiful green lush countryside. There was also a set of stairs that you could walk up to get even higher that had a white cross at the top, such as beautiful site. We then traveled back to the training center but stopped at a beautiful large church along the way. There is a lot of history in the church (established in 1755) and it just amazes me the sheer size and I wish the walls could talk because I’m sure they would have a great story to tell! The door itself just amazed me; it is the original door to the church that is about 20 feet tall and about 6 inches wide of just solid wood. I don’t understand how it can stay on the hinges or how they can open and close it but it was phenomenal none the less. It was a great stop to just sit down and breathe and reflect before we arrived back at to the training center to learn our site.

When we arrived back at the main training center the training staff had completely decorated everything up and had beautiful decorations everywhere as well as the main room rearranged with a huge map of Paraguay in the front with a pin pointed to each location that one of us would be going (without our names of course). They made it up into a large ceremony where our director of training gave an opening address just reminding us that we were just receiving a name of a site with basic characteristics but then it is up to us to make the site our home and our community. All of the staff here both Paraguayan and American are all just super supportive and you can tell that they honestly are cheering for our success. After her address all of our names were put into a hat and one by one we were brought up to learn our site name and then put our face on the map next to our site.

So my new community and home where I will be working and living for the next two years is YUKYRY CENTRAL which is located in the providence of Caaguazu. I am still in the process of practicing how to say it with all of the ‘y’ pronounced different in Guarani. In case Caaguazu sounds/looks familiar I visited the capital on my long field practice so I will be about 30 km north of where I have already visited, the wood capital of Paraguay. I have attached a photo of my placement letter that you can look at and hopefully read. When I talked to my technical trainer (who has been to my site) told me while introducing my site to the group that he hoped I brought a few good pairs of hiking boots but that it was a beautiful site.

Here is what else I know about my community as of right now from what my contact wrote down for me.
-I am a first time volunteer which means I will be the first in the PC cycle of 3 different volunteers. So my main “job” will just be to fully integrate into the community and to tell them about Peace Corps and then go through the process of community assessment and find out what the community is interested in doing. I will be able to work on projects but my main task will just be to learn about the community and make contacts and inroads for my follow-ups. Also I have the job of finding a house to live (hopefully not build!) in the community and to get it furnished and ready for my follow-up. I am super excited about being a first time volunteer, but also a bit nerve wrecking.
-There are 50-60 houses in my community with about 300 people. So here is considered a small pueblo. This is also one of the smaller communities when I talked to other members in my group who have much larger communities.
-They do have electricity (YES!) and some, but not all, have running water in the house and evidently many people do not have what we would consider modern bathrooms but rather holes in the ground (outhouses for some reason are not common here). So this aspect should be a fun adventure but I will know more when I go on my future site visit!
-Where I will be able to catch/get off the bus is 5 km from my site so I will be hiking in and to get groceries for the most part I will have to go into Caaguazu about 30 km away by bus. Also if it rains the bus doesn’t run and even if the bus is running I can either only leave at 5 am or at noon, so advanced planning will be important, and praying for good weather!
-It seems like the majority of my work at first will be done through the school where they already have a large organic garden and small scale tree nursery. It seems as if my community is super interested in agroforestry and reforestation because there is widespread logging in the past (and somewhat currently) so they are interested in replanting and learning about forestry!!! Also they are interested in me working with the local women’s group and teaching about deforestation, abonos verdes (green manures), and agroforestry.

I will be visiting my site starting on Friday through the following Wednesday so after that point I will be able to tell you a lot more about my site and hopefully to have some pictures.

And if my day couldn’t get any better I came home and found the Michi (my wonderful host family cat) had her babies today so we have 3 small new additions to the family (2 black and 1 red kittens). They are so cute but I am trying to not become too attached because I know there is a good chance that they will all not survive but I am staying hopeful. And just to add to my perfect day…I also heard from Thad last night and I am so proud of him because he received a wonderful forestry internship so he will be moving down to Arkansas in January to start his internship! I am so proud and happy for him!

Next week I will get back on Wednesday and then Thursday is Thanksgiving so we will be going to the Ambassador’s house for that. I have to honestly say that it is hard to get into the “holiday spirit” when it is 100+ outside, everyone is starting to put up decorations for Christmas and it just doesn’t feel right. Also I have just thought about the fact that my birthday (July 25th) usually at home is the hottest day of the year but here will be freezing! But I will be able to swim in the pool for Thanksgiving so I can’t say that I have done that anytime in the past.

Also I just wanted to thank those of you for sending me so many wonderful cards because they are just absolutely wonderful to receive. I also have a change of address that I will post in a few weeks so you can continue using my old address until I get my new address confirmed. Also I have found that with regular mail service (ie no government shut down) I can get a letter here in about 2 weeks in case anyone was wondering.

I hope that you all are having a great time back at home and I pray that you all have a wonderful Thanksgiving with your families, there is a lot to be thankful for this year! Although I will not be with my friends and family back at home in the states I will be with my new PC friends and will be thinking of my friends and family back home.

The Perfect Day in Paraguay Pictures!