Friday, October 18, 2013

3 de Noviembre

On Monday morning I left my home here in Tacuruty and traveled to the southeastern part of Paraguay.  For four days each of us were assigned a current Peace Corps volunteer (PCV) to go and stay with to see what they do in a normal day.  I was assigned to another environmental volunteer named Porter and he has been in country for about a year and been in his site a year in December.  His site is a very “campo” site which just means he is out in the countryside.  Porter is actually from Virginia and has his masters from VA Tech and worked for VA department of forestry collecting FIA data, so we had a lot in common.  I traveled to Villarica on a bus and met Porter there where we got lunch and did a little bit of grocery shopping.  He also showed me around the markets and a local park since we had a little bit of time before our next bus left.  Our next bus left Villarica and went towards his site.  It was a two hour bus ride with about 1 hour on “pavement” that turned into cobblestone road then gravel and then finally to dirt/mud road.  It wouldn’t have been a bad ride except for the wooden seats that seemed to get harder as we went along with no padding on the bad roads.  We drove through some small campo towns but nothing too substantial and went over a “bridge” over a river that was actually just a wooden structure with no sides and signs that said DANGER so I just stopped looking down and said a little prayer but we got across with no difficulties. 

When Porter said to get up and start moving to the front of the bus I looked outside and we were in the middle of NOWHERE but it was so beautiful with green rolling hills and lots of animals (cows, chicken, pigs, etc.).  So we got off and started our trek/hike into his site.  There is a “shortcut” through the fields so we went through several different farmers’ fields with cattle going through the fences and then went over a small creek, up a huge hill and about a 30 minute walk from where we got off the bus we arrived at his house.  Porter actually built his house on his host families land since he is the first volunteer in that community and I will try to post pictures later but it is a very nice house with a kitchen and bedroom with running water, a hot shower, and an outhouse that actually has a normal toilet with running water.  The house was really nice especially compared to many others in the area especially since he had running water and electricity.  His host families’ house was located about 100 feet from his house so we spent a lot of time with them.  Also he had internet and phone access which just blows my mind but was fun to have. 

His site is called 3 de Noviembre which isn’t really any city or specific place but rather a region.  His community is very spread out through a series of mud roads and the main economy is growing yerba mate which is a tree that they harvest the leaves off of and what everyone in Paraguay drinks at any time of the day (Terere and Mate).  There was also a lot of cassava grown in the region and many people had their own few banana and orange trees.  Porter’s main project is trying to get people interested in biodigestors which would give farmers a way to make fertilizer and gas using the byproducts (poop) of their animals, mainly cattle.  I had worked/ seen many biodigestors in Costa Rica so it was cool to see that this is a project worked on by the Peace Corps here in Paraguay.  At this point in his service he has just been getting people interested and has two families which he has applied and received a grant for funding to install 2 biodigestors which will occur over the next year.  He is also putting together an information session for other people to come and learn about biodigestors to try and promote their use in the area.  His other main project is working in the schools which he does once a week helping them set up a school garden for the high school.

The first full day on site we walked about 5 km through the community to reach one of the families that he has worked with.  It seems like for everyone about half their time is spent sitting in a circle drinking Terere because it helps cool you off/ hydrate as well as the entire social aspect of communicating.  So we spent the first hour or so doing that and then went with the farmer into his peach orchard and helped him pick peaches for a couple of hours which is hard work and the peach fuzz gets everywhere but we had fun picking peaches and eating those that wouldn’t transport well.  He sells his peaches in the closest town so he takes them in about once per week but he had probably around 250 peach trees.  When we filled the baskets we had we went back to the house and drank Terere again and were able to eat lunch there.  Porter has it figured out that if you arrive at someone’s house in the morning and stay until about lunch time the senora will always invite you for lunch so he goes to different houses every day to get lunch, which is a good plan because you always get good food from different houses.  J

After lunch we helped him pick some more peaches and he took us to another piece of property that he owned so we looked at that.  The area is just beautiful with small mountains in the background with rolling hills but sadly much of the land has been deforested and put into production for either cattle or soy beans.  The farmer we were with had cut about half the trees out of the forest and then put way too many cattle in the woods so the understory is pretty much nonexistent and he is now running into the problem of there not being enough grass/ plants for his cows to eat.  The other field we toured he had pigs down in the bottoms where the creek was and they were just tearing up everything and polluting the water but I don’t think he realized the water quality issues.  We ended the day helping him dig up cassava which is a tree that you harvest the roots from which is a staple here in Paraguay.  Overall though it was a good day talking to him with my limited Spanish skills but I could tell how proud he was of his property and although it might not be running sustainably for the future he is providing for his large family and is so proud of that.  He also had the largest cabbage plants that I had ever seen growing in his garden!

On Wednesday morning we walked to the high school which was about 3 km from the house and there we worked with around 10 students to help put in their garden.  They didn’t get the project started until about a month ago and school will be getting out in about 2 months for summer break so they are not really planting a lot but rather getting the beds dug out and will be planting abono verdes (which are just plants that are cover crops, some of which add N to the soil, help protect from soil erosion, and some can actually be harvested like some types of beans).  For that morning at the school we were just trying to dig one bed about 1 mx 3m double dug with the addition of a lot of compost and organic matter.  About ¼ of the students were actually interested and willing to help so for the others we had to keep giving them tasks, and still even then they didn’t really do anything.  They are supposed to have school for 4 hours a day (they either go in the morning or afternoon) so they go from 7-11 but they have a ONE HOUR break from 9-10 so really they are only in school for 3 hours but even then school never starts on time and I doubt they have any more than 2 hours of instruction in any given day, which is the sad truth.  Working at the school though gave me a good perspective about working in the schools and trying to set up a school garden with not a lot of students interested. 

After working in the schools for the morning we walked just a little ways down to another house of one of the families that will be receiving a biodigestors.  He has a wonderful garden where they grow their fresh vegetables and he actually grows and sells the yerba mate plant to other local farmers.  We walked around his farm awhile, drank more Terere and then was “lucky” enough to be able to stay for lunch.  After lunch he walked us to another part of his property where he was digging for gold.  Evidently there is a huge deposit of gold here in Paraguay but unfortunately they just don’t have the technology to extract it so instead other companies from outside Paraguay come in with the expensive technology and extract the gold.  For the farmer that we visited I know he paid a lot of money and had just an huge “hole” about the size of a football field about 50 feet deep on his property and he was disappointed that he hadn’t found gold, which I unfortunately don’t think he will find with the limited equipment he has.  We talked to him for a while and then walked to another house for about an hour or so followed by another on our way home.  It seems like about half the time is just spent sitting talking to people and allowing them to show you all of their land and animals which they are so proud of. 

On Thursday morning we left around 6:15 and walked back the “shortcut” to the road with a beautiful sunrise but very wet grass (so I had wet feet all day).  I caught the bus back into Villarica and from there traveled back to my house which took around 8 hours and I was completely exhausted when I finally arrived home.  Luckily though on my way back to Asuncion we took the northern route instead of the southern one so I was able to see an entirely new landscape.  Today (Friday) we are all together at the training center sharing what we learned over the past few days and having more medical/ safety and security lectures. 

A few things I learned over the last week…

1.       ALL of the cats in Paraguay are named Michi

2.       The bathrooms on the bus are horrible so it’s better to not eat or drink when you’re traveling; I learned this one the hard way.

3.       Everyone stares at you when you’re the only white person on the bus and no one will sit by you.

4.       It’s beginning to get hot (about 90’s) and everyone keeps telling me to just wait because it really isn’t hot yet. L

5.       Paraguay countryside is BEAUTIFUL!

6.       The red clay does stain everything and my socks will never be white again, but oh well!  My mom was horrified by how dirty I was when I got home since my shoes were muddy and the bottom half of my pants were muddy but I didn’t really have a choice so she insisted that I wash all my clothes which actually takes a lot of time doing laundry by hand after a long day of travel.

7.       The insects must like pale skin because I was eaten alive.  My mom once again was freaking out and had to touch all of my bites to make sure they weren’t boht flies.  She also wasn’t happy with all of the sun I got because I am losing my “paleness”.  She is just so funny sometimes!

8.       I am starting to lose some of my English words; I know them in Spanish but for the life of me can’t remember in English.  So I know my grammar/ spelling may be getting bad, sorry. 
 
Below you should see a few pictures of my volunteer visit and the house that Porter built as well as a few of the peaches we picked and the beautiful sunset.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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